Friday 13 January 2017

1950's style Cotton and Chalk Denim Trousers/Dungaree Mashup

That's quite the beast of a title isn't it? But it does exactly what it says on the tin! 

So in a nutshell! [a rather large nutshell] This is my interpretation of the Sunday set dungaree trousers, by cotton and chalk. Now I've already made the dress from this [you can see it here] But after I really wanted to give the trouser option ago! 

So the pattern, I did make a few changes, for starters the pattern calls for gathers at the front and back but I just couldn't get on board with that because they might make my hips look poofy. And I am not about poofy hips. So I changed the gathers to a simple pleat on either side which I think is a lot more flattering and less bulky. 


Secondly the pattern calls for a centre back zip and whilst I'm not opposed to a centre back zip in trousers It felt kind of wrong to do it in a pair of denim dungarees so I did a complete hack! Basically I decided instead of trying to do a fly front because OMG I am not ready for that level of stress again.[And would it look weird with the bib?]  I went for two side tab closures, with buttons and button holes I thought they might give a nice vintage sort of feel which is what I was going for.

anyway here's a brief [and pretty terrible description of how I calculated the front and back waistband. 

- Measure Waist
-Mine was 28inches, so divide that by 2
28 ÷ 2 =14
- add seam allowance and ease [roughly 1.5inch]
 14+1.5=15.5 
-15.5 inches = front waistband

-back waistband 
-half of waist measurement [14] + seam allowance and ease [1.5] + 4inch for overlap
14+1.5+4=19.5inches=back waistband

I also added a small zip [recycled from 2x old pairs of jeans into the side seams of the trousers, this has two uses, 1. it looks bad-ass and 2. it means you can get in and out of them with having a split in the side seam and potentially showing your pants! Or some squishy fleshy bits. 


And as you may have gathered from the picture above I made another pretty big change! I made the bib detachable again. Just because it gives the item a lot more styling freedom! I did it the same way as I did my delphine mashup.  


All the buttons are from my stash but the ones on the side tabs and the ones on the bib don't match. I don't think its a huge issue though?

I also did all my top stitching in a golden coloured thread which means they look a bit like ready to wear! I was going to do flat felled seams down the sides but I couldn't work out how to do them and incorporate the zips so I just top stitched up the edge of each seam. 


I love the mock jeans feel that these have and the slightly 50's vibe, definitely feel like I should be digging for victory and stuff! I even like the turn ups at the bottom! Wanna know a secret these are not even hemmed, not even stitched I literally just folded them over! How lazy am I! [giggles]


Here's what they look like without the bib, Its a shame you can;t see more of the detail but this denim was such a monkey to photograph! 
The fabric incidentally was a wedding gift from my mum and dad! And I have a sneaking suspicion it came from abakhans! 


This is me doing my best Rosie the riveter impression....... Anyway I adore this make, I don't think I'd make it again but if I did I think I would make a few more improvements:

1. place button holes further on the ends of tabs [they flap around a bit, I'm wondering if a press stud at the end may help?]
2. Use thicker interfacing!
3. I really wanted the add side seam pockets and I miss that they are not their, but I just don't think I could work it out! That said I think some bum pockets would work really nicely!

But even in spite of it flaws I still love it! And its quite might to have a pair of denim trousers with a slightly different shape!

Much Love

Frankie!

xxx




3 comments:

  1. these are super cute! I am far too old to wear such pants, but you are adorable in them!! great job (and so clever to make the bib detachable)
    happy sewing ~ Tracy

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  2. Loving this look, you've styled them perfectly! With you on gathers verses pleats, they've turned out awesome, the bib is fab, you can have some mix and match bibs n bottoms. As for hemming...what people can't see doesn't matter as it doesn't exist :D x

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