Friday, 13 January 2017

1950's style Cotton and Chalk Denim Trousers/Dungaree Mashup

That's quite the beast of a title isn't it? But it does exactly what it says on the tin! 

So in a nutshell! [a rather large nutshell] This is my interpretation of the Sunday set dungaree trousers, by cotton and chalk. Now I've already made the dress from this [you can see it here] But after I really wanted to give the trouser option ago! 

So the pattern, I did make a few changes, for starters the pattern calls for gathers at the front and back but I just couldn't get on board with that because they might make my hips look poofy. And I am not about poofy hips. So I changed the gathers to a simple pleat on either side which I think is a lot more flattering and less bulky. 

Secondly the pattern calls for a centre back zip and whilst I'm not opposed to a centre back zip in trousers It felt kind of wrong to do it in a pair of denim dungarees so I did a complete hack! Basically I decided instead of trying to do a fly front because OMG I am not ready for that level of stress again.[And would it look weird with the bib?]  I went for two side tab closures, with buttons and button holes I thought they might give a nice vintage sort of feel which is what I was going for.

anyway here's a brief [and pretty terrible description of how I calculated the front and back waistband. 

- Measure Waist
-Mine was 28inches, so divide that by 2
28 ÷ 2 =14
- add seam allowance and ease [roughly 1.5inch]
-15.5 inches = front waistband

-back waistband 
-half of waist measurement [14] + seam allowance and ease [1.5] + 4inch for overlap
14+1.5+4=19.5inches=back waistband

I also added a small zip [recycled from 2x old pairs of jeans into the side seams of the trousers, this has two uses, 1. it looks bad-ass and 2. it means you can get in and out of them with having a split in the side seam and potentially showing your pants! Or some squishy fleshy bits. 

And as you may have gathered from the picture above I made another pretty big change! I made the bib detachable again. Just because it gives the item a lot more styling freedom! I did it the same way as I did my delphine mashup.  

All the buttons are from my stash but the ones on the side tabs and the ones on the bib don't match. I don't think its a huge issue though?

I also did all my top stitching in a golden coloured thread which means they look a bit like ready to wear! I was going to do flat felled seams down the sides but I couldn't work out how to do them and incorporate the zips so I just top stitched up the edge of each seam. 

I love the mock jeans feel that these have and the slightly 50's vibe, definitely feel like I should be digging for victory and stuff! I even like the turn ups at the bottom! Wanna know a secret these are not even hemmed, not even stitched I literally just folded them over! How lazy am I! [giggles]

Here's what they look like without the bib, Its a shame you can;t see more of the detail but this denim was such a monkey to photograph! 
The fabric incidentally was a wedding gift from my mum and dad! And I have a sneaking suspicion it came from abakhans! 

This is me doing my best Rosie the riveter impression....... Anyway I adore this make, I don't think I'd make it again but if I did I think I would make a few more improvements:

1. place button holes further on the ends of tabs [they flap around a bit, I'm wondering if a press stud at the end may help?]
2. Use thicker interfacing!
3. I really wanted the add side seam pockets and I miss that they are not their, but I just don't think I could work it out! That said I think some bum pockets would work really nicely!

But even in spite of it flaws I still love it! And its quite might to have a pair of denim trousers with a slightly different shape!

Much Love




  1. these are super cute! I am far too old to wear such pants, but you are adorable in them!! great job (and so clever to make the bib detachable)
    happy sewing ~ Tracy

    1. Thankyou Im really pleased with them!

  2. Loving this look, you've styled them perfectly! With you on gathers verses pleats, they've turned out awesome, the bib is fab, you can have some mix and match bibs n bottoms. As for hemming...what people can't see doesn't matter as it doesn't exist :D x


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