Vogue 1790 - Calvin Klein Check Skirt

Well I think we can quite safely say that winter has arrived. I'm rocking a woolly hat on the school run and every day is an argument about whats a reasonable number to have the heating on [FYI its 22 at least!!! Not the poxy 18 Rikki keeps putting it on!]

Anyways I was given the fabric and the pattern for this skirt at the start of summer [By the awesome lady who also gave me the vogue coat stuff] I loved the pattern and the fabric but held off making it for ages because I knew that making a wool skirt in summer wouldn't be practical and that I'd be gutted if I loved it and couldn't wear it right away. Plus its always nice to save yourself a lil something to stitch up at the start of winter isn't it?

The pattern is Vogue 1790 which is a Calvin Klein pattern [you can find it here]. I love that the big designers released patterns via vogue back in the day. I think its a bit less common now and if there is a designer pattern it tends to be a bit more of an obscure shape! 

Anyway I opted for view A which is a classic shaped pencil skirt but with front pockets instead of darts. I'm not sure what its called but its the type of pocket you might find in your jeans at the front? I've never done this type before so I was a bit daunted! 

Eurgh my hair is terrible at the moment, it definitely needs a good cut! 

 I cut a size 12 from the pattern and the fit is pretty bang on. In fact the only adjustment I made was to shorten the whole thing by about a foot! No seriously I took 12 inches off. I do not have the body/legs/height for midi length. And after taking these picture I lobbed another inch off and re hemmed it again. 

Taking a foot off did mean that I lost the back vent. I'm not a huge fan of back vents to be honest because I'm always terrified that they weaken the back seam and that I'll end up splitting the skirt and showing the world my knickers! I can see the practicality in them though because walking in this is a small stride affair only! Much to Rikki's disgust that I can't keep up with his big man steps! It also means I walk like Marilyn Monroe with a wiggly bum but I;m not 100% that's a downside?! 

Pattern matching wise everything lines up pretty well apart from the back seam of the skirt, but the zips a mess anyway so chances are I'll redo that at some point anyway. The fabric is wool, I worked this out via a burn test and by how darn scratchy it is! The pattern actually calls for a lining but I have a few slips that I use instead of lining so I skipped it!

I did opt to overlock all the edges of my skirt pieces before sewing though just to make sure that the fabric wouldn't fray. Its not a particularly loose weave but I don't like to take any risks where my dignities concerned! 

How awesome are the shoes by the way? They were one of my £1 charity shop pairs and they are actually pretty comfy!

The pockets turned out better than I thought to say it was my first time doing this sort, I've got to say pressing worked wonders on getting them to look halfway decent. I had some trouble with the clipping and turning bit, so one of them is stitched closed until about half way across to keep it flat. But to be honest you can't really put anything in them anyway, 1. they are too shallow and 2. My stomach is not somewhere I like to add extra bulk! Even if its just my mobile phone! 

The waistband ended up being a bit bulky [I think that's what led to my zip issues] The waistband is cut on one piece that you fold over, as is the interfacing. So technically you get a double layer of interfacing and a double layer of wool. Which I didn't realise until I'd fused my thick interfacing to the waistband. Next time I'd hack the waistband so there was a waistband and a waistband lining and I'd just do one layer of interfacing. Plus that way I could use a cotton to line the waistband which would be a bit less scratchy on the old tum tum. 

All in all I really love it and I'm always pleased to have another wool skirt in the old wardrobe! I think my favourite detail is the front pockets and they also provide the shaping for the front of the skirt so no darts in the front just in the back!

In other news!

The winter boots are out!

I'm looking forward to my demo at Hanley Abakhans on sew Saturday! So if your in stoke on the 21st October pop down and say hello! I'll be there until about dinner time! 

Much Love 

Frankie 

xxxx 

Black Pencil Skirt

I distinctly remember by my first black pencil skirt, we had a funeral to attend and after much rooting in my wardrobe it was decided I need a new skirt. As far as skirts go it was nice, it had a pleated kick pleat and was from m&s but I hated that skirt. Mainly because it was intended for a funeral which itself gives off pretty horrible thoughts but secondly because why do we feel the need to wear black to funerals? they should be a celebration of LIFE! And life is COLOURFUL! I've already informed Rikki that the dress code for my funeral should be "fabulous as f**k" I think it would be a wonderful occasion for people to crack out their ball gowns! 

Anyway as sucky as funerals are this is my new funeral skirt. the fabric came from my friend, she has already cut out a skirt for herself, but it had a side zip [and we all know how I feel about those] and I wasn't sure how the fit would be so I opted to cut another skirt using my old faithful GBSB pencil skirt pattern [book 2]. Luckily I manged to get the skirt out of the existing fabric, the only thing I had to forgo was the waistband. So instead this waistband is finished with a strip of brightly coloured bias tape.

The skirt sewed up super fast and I love the fit, those four darts at the front really seam to work with my shape. And I did a really awesome job on the lapped zip which is fast becoming one of my favourites. I've really been focusing on my finishing at the moment in the hopes of becoming a better dressmaker. 

Please excuse my hideous panty line! I put on makeup for blog pictures I am not about the start changing my knickers too. 

The skirt is hemmed by hand which was a nice therapeutic touch for a skirt that will end up holding bad memories. 

So why make a skirt that you will one day end up hating? [I can hear you all saying it] Well you see I read once that clothes are the armour we put on every day and I think its true. I hope that this skirt will give me courage and keep me strong because well, sewing is therapy. For me at least.

In slightly happier news! 

My guinea pig isn't depressed anymore! We had a rocky few weeks after his cage mate died where he'd just sit looking glassy eyed and wouldn't eat or drink anything. He was also really needy and would squeak for hours [if anybodys wondering, Yes a squeaking guinea pig can wake you up at two in the morning even if all the doors are closed in the house and it's downstairs!]  But yes he's almost back to his usual self eating and drinking quite happily!

Pattern - pencil skirt , GBSB book 2

Fabric - Gift from a friend!

Much Love

Frankie 

xxx

Liberty Pencil Skirt

Guess who's camera battery arrived? Yes mine so I spent a good half an hour today photographing the various things I've been making for the past two weeks!

This is the first thing I made. I had some of this liberty cotton cord from abakhans left over after I made my liberty Sunday dungaree dress. I had intended to make a nice circle skirt but after taking a look at the fabric I realised that it would have been a bit short, almost indecent really.  

So I settled on making a pencil skirt. This is the same pattern I've used for pretty much every pencil skirt I've made. But what can I say The pencil skirt pattern from the 2nd GBSB book just works for me!!!  

I added a waistband with a little lapped part that closes with two press studs. So the lapped zip only comes to the waistband, Its a great way of using a slightly too short zip in a skirt!

Its hemmed by hand because that's my favourite way of finishing these types of skirts! The inside of the waistband is also finished by hand, I just can't get on board with the whole stitching in the ditch thing. I also did a lapped zip because its fast becoming my favourite way of doing zips! 

This isn't a great picture of the back because its hard to get decent pictures because of the print. But you can see the zip only goes up to the waistband. This gives me a great chance to use my shorter zips but still be able to get the skirt over my backside!

I didn't quite have enough of the liberty cord to line the waistband so I used this burgundy upholstery weight stuff. I actually think it helps support the waistband because its slightly thicker!

So yeah all in all I love this skirt, I just have no idea how to style it? I've got a lace crop top I could wear? Maybe with a leather jacket? or I could try and style it down with a band tshirt? The difficulty is whilst the background looks white on these pictures its actually a sort of cream? So it looks kind of strange with white tops!

In other news! 

After feeling pretty rough over the weekend I feel much better now

I am still ploughing on with Me Made May and trying to wear as many different things as possible.

Much Love

Frankie 

xxx

Tartan Pencil skirt, with Full Zip Back

Right so I have to start off by saying this skirt makes me feel all kinds of sassy. In this skirt I'm the love child of Marilyn Monroe and Joan from mad men.

I mean it fits, oh boy does it fit. To the point I'm like "is this actually to small?" and the little voice in my head goes "don't be daft Frankie! you ate most of your sons Easter chocolate, your still bloated from that massive bowl of pasta you just consumed and you don't NEED to sit down anyway!" 

Anyway I made this because I wanted to add a cool Viviene Westwood vibe to my wardrobe and because there's Scottish in my blood! What? something had to explain my deep love of whiskey and sing song! 

Anyway the fabric is from abakahns and the pattern is from the second Great British sewing book, But I added a waistband and switched out the short zip for a long exposed one! 

Well I say exposed.... exposed zips sort of leave me with a rashy feeling. I mean "why haven't you finished?" so its like a semi exposed zip, the tapes are covered but you can see all the gorgeous metal teeth as a nice contrast to the twee tartan!

and it goes the whole way down the back. Which was inspired by a ready to wear skirt I have that has a full zip down the front. 

Also can we please take a moment to appreciate the pattern matching across my bottom, yes stare at my bottom....see the print? awesome right! Its actually out by about 4mm but my bum looks all kinds of perky so If someone notices then they are not looking at the right thing! 

It also closes with a hook and eye as the top because I basically have to pour myself into this! [it really is a bit too tight!] and having it already closed at the top helps when I'm trying to pull the zip up with one hand and redistribute my bum with the other!  

Construction wise its pretty simple, front darts back darts, I French seamed the inside because this fabric frays like no tomorrow, and the inside waistband is slip stitched by hand. there is also two rows of stitching on the zip to make sure it can "cope" with the "strain"

Anyway I still think its a HUGE success and I actually cannot wait to wear it when some of this bloats gone!!!

Much Love

Frankie

xxx 

Patterns I Want To Try:

The Alder Shirtdress - Grainline Studios

$18.00

This is the bomb! its every shirt dress I've ever wanted in one pattern. I love the casual style and the girly gathers! I'm dreaming of it in a denim chambray, worn with no tights and brogues, then I'll pop onto my bike and go for a picnic. Or in winter paired with thick tights and a roll neck top sipping hot chocolate and watching fireworks.

Anderson Blouse - Sew Over It 

£7.00 PDF

I'll start by saying that Lisa Comfort is my girl crush, so that's probably impacted my decision but I really blooming love this, its causal and looks comfortable. Plus its got that classy vibe that I'm always trying to achieve [so easy when you've got a four year old clinging to your leg!] I'd make it in a jewel tones and wear it with jeans to sass up the school run!

Anna Dress - By Hand London

£9.00 PDF

Sleeves without having to actually set in sleeves? I am sold!! I actually really love the maxi dress style of this, but the shorter versions are cute too! I'd go for a loud print and a flower crown, Perfect for strolling along beaches! 

Coco - Tilly and the Buttons

£9.50 PDF

This has been out forever! and I've seen soooooo many versions that I love! I think I'd keep it classic and go for stripes although I love the idea of doing some really bold colour blocking!

Ginger Jeans - Closet Case File

$14.00 PDF

I've had an unhealthy obsession with skinny jeans since my mum brought me my first pair and I discovered that they lifted and displayed my ass in a way boyfriend jeans never would! Dark denim, light denim, coloured denim, I would make these in ALL THE COLOURS!  

Ultimate pencil skirt - Sew Over It

£8.50 PDF

Ever since I saw the awesome denim bow fronted version that sozo made I have loved this pattern, I'd imagine this would be the perfect pattern for accentuating curves and getting your bum wriggle on, a la marilyn monroe! Id make it tweed and wool and tartan and all the mad men fabrics I could get my greedy little hands on!

So that's my current wishlist! And what have I realised? I like a comfortable/casual vintage style and tend to want to sew the same clothes that I would buy in the shops!

I've also realised that sewing patterns are EXPENSIVE! Sweet Jesus! but I guess everyone's got to make a living and I am a pretty stingy person in general!

Do you have any sewing pattern recommendations?

Much Love

Frankie 

Threadcount Suede Pencil Skirt

I made this last night, because I'm rapid at sewing and stuff! The pattern came from an issue of love sewing magazine, Its threadcount 1604 and the skirt is part of a five in one wardrobe builder. The skirt is the first project I've made from it.

Originally I was like meh pencil skirt, I already have a pencil skirt pattern that I love so it seemed a bit obsolete, that was until I looked and saw that it had no darts and was just made up of panels with curved tops which is pretty cool!

Its a lil wrinkled here because I'd been wearing it all so so forgive me! I cut a size 12, my hip measurement came out as a 98cm and the size 12 finished measurement is 100cm so I thought it would be fitted enough but hopefully still comfy. As it goes it fits like a glove!

The back split looks wonky here but it isn't, I top-stitched up the edge of each seam to really bring out the panels.  

The fabric came from one of my mums friends, I think it was here curtains they seemed pretty new though.

The instructions were pretty clear but I kind off went my own way when it came to the waistband, I read the instructions but they didn't make sense to me so being tired I just winged it and I think it looks okay, its got a zip in and then a button on the waistband.

Its got a pretty deep hem, mainly I think because my legs are disproportionate to my body. Ie I have a long body and stumpy lil legs......like a hobbit.

All in all I love it, the colours great and the fit is excellent even if I do look like I've been poured in!

I thought it would go with lots of stuff in my wardrobe but it turns out its a hard one to pair stuff with, because the skirt is a loud colour I feel like it needs a more muted top but I don't want to look like a secretary, any ideas?

Here's a close up of the top stitching! I used a slightly pink thread to make it stand out!

I'm pleased to announce this a success!!!

Much Love

Frankie 

xxx

The Phoenix from the ashes!

I remade my Robert dress! Into a pencil skirt! 

Please prepare yourself for some awkward posing! 

I used the pencil skirt pattern from the second sewing bee book. But added a suede waistband. 

I also added a good couple if inches to the front panels (which I cut separately) so I could make a front button placket! And omitted the zip. (Read: I didn't have a brown zip)

I had to squeeze the pattern peices onto the fabric hence the waistband and the suede panel that I attached to the bottom and topstitched. 

Still not sure have that blooming back vent is supposed to work though! Stupid instructions! I really should google it, anybody have any ideas how the vent for this pattern works? 

This one seems to fit better than my blue version, probably because it's not a stretch fabric. The buttons are vintage, my lovely momma brought me back a big bag of brown buttons from a vintage fair she went to recently. All my buttonholes went in easy bar one, that one is a wonky  mess but seen as I don't plan on wearing this with the buttons undone I don't see it as a major issue, and after unpicking it twice I wasn't going to torture mysf once more for the sake of a bit of wonky ness.

I lined the waistband with a pretty heinous scrap of quilting cotton, it's peeking out though so some top stitching might be required. 

I think I like it, I'm not sure if it reminds me of something of the late eighties early nighties? 

I'm not in love with it but I don't hate it? 

Let's put it this way, I like it much better than what it previously was (Robert dress) but I don't like it as much as my delphine skirt in the same fabric, then again I didn't like that in the beggining! 

Much love

Frankie

Xxx

Excess fabric...

We've all over ordered on fabric or quite simply had some left from a project. 

But what do you do with it? I use the medium bits for quilts and backings and appliqué, the really skimpy bits go to little knitwits nursery but sometimes there's bigger bits! 

And sometimes you can squeeze another garment out! 

 

The fabric is what was left of my navy stretch suiting from Minerva fabrics after is made my megan dress. 

And the skirt pattern is from the great British sewing bee sew your own wardrobe book (although I had to Frankenstein the front together) 

I went for a sailor vibe with two big white buttons as decoration .

And too stitched all my seams open, which left a really nice finish on the inside. 

The fits pretty good is slinky enough to be a pencil skirt but there's still room for cake. 

And it's got a cool split thing at the back (although I had to stitch mine shut a bit becuase it was indecent) 

And it goes with my first megan top! WINNER! 

And I got two garments from two metres!

WINNER!

Much love 

Frankie

Xxx