The Half Finished Jacket - Part 2

Okay so here's part two on my half finished coat project! You can read part one here: or you can read the short recap below!

Okay so I was given the pieces for a coat by an old friend, she had already cut it all out and basted in the interfacing, I finished said coat according to instructions including hemming etc, then realised I am NOT living in the 80's, so I took the whole thing apart to alter it again! 

The image above is how it looked the last time you saw it!

and below is the finished and altered jacket!

So I think we can quite safely say the fit is a lot better right? Its still got the big and slouchy vibe to it but The general fit is just better!

First of all I tried it on and worked out where the shoulder head needed to be on me. I marked this by standing in front of my mirror and using tailors chalk. 

So then I unpicked the entire thing, with wine, lots of wine. Because well if your going to sit and unpick an entire jacket you've just finished you are going to NEED wine!! Well actually I just unpicked the lining and then took out the sleeves and unpicked the side seams the neckline and the collar as well as the shoulder seams stayed intact!

I even unpicked the pockets and took them off [I was sure to mark a line where the top of the pocket needed to go though!] 

Then I measured how much I needed to take of the side seams and shoulder seams. A whopping 6.5cm which is slightly bigger than your average digestive biscuit. Luckily as the shoulders were drafted quite flat [I guess to accommodate the shoulder pads , which I also removed..... and burned] taking in the side seams just meant laying my pattern pieces back over the fabric pieces and re cutting the shoulder and side seam line as well as the armhole. That description probably isn't very clear which is why I took a picture of it one my phone, which Lil man then deleted whilst taking selfies........   If you want to see a really awful picture of what I was planning to do check out my instagram! [thanks by the way to all the guys who commented on my idea telling me whether or not they thought it would work!]

I did this for the fronts and back as well as for the lining, then I positioned the pockets centrally and sewed the whole thing back up! [I had to remove the pockets because they were placed within the 6.5cm I was getting rid off] 

I even did my fancy hem stitching again! Happily due to me re-sewing the sleeves I was able to set them in flat this time which I think is a better way of doing it! Plus I didn't scratch all my arms like last time!

All in all I think its a much better fit and I am glad to be rid of those darn shoulder pads!

Gosh this has been a pretty heavy post hasn't it? I'm actually surprised that I worked out how to alter a jacket and that I managed to do it and that my theory panned out! I guess that means my sewing skills are starting to improve? 

Yay I have a new winter coat! Although it still doesn't have buttons! And a huge thanks to Sue who gave me the coat to work with , thank you so much of thinking off me!!

Much Love

Frankie

xxx

The Half Finished Jacket Part 1

Okay so this jacket was given to me by an old friend, I used to go to school with her daughter and then I used to serve here in the pub! [Stella shandy, half and half, the fact that I can still remember drinks orders like this but don't know where my slippers are is highly amusing] 

Anyways she was moving and she started this jacket when she was in college [which was a little while ago, I ain't going to start divulging peoples ages!] and she offered it to me! As well as an awesome sewing box that folds out! 

P.S This is my first finished jacket so prepare yourself for a long post! 

The jacket was already cut out and all of the pieces had the interfacing attached and the pad stitching had already been done! The pattern was vogue 1446 , which as you can see is VERY 80's!!!! The jacket that was cut out was the middle one [view B] and a good portion of the work had already been done. 

Here's a list of what had been done:

Cutting out

Pad stitching

Pockets attached to front pieces

Fronts and backs of sleeves sewn together [They are in two parts]

Sewn side seams [As it goes I undid the side seams and sleeve seams and re sewed them because I know how seam allowances can vary from person to person]

Anyways I finished it!!!! Woop woop! I had actually forgotten just how good vogue instructions are!

I had to attach the collar which went in easy and attach the sleeves which was less fun, vogue has you set then in with the side seams sewn up and I scratched up my arms because of all the pins I had to wrangle around my sewing machine!

Then I had to sew and attach the lining, I sewed most of the lining to the front facing by machine but the neck area was stitched by hand just so I'd have more control and be able to achieve a neater finish.

I love how this turned out because you can barely see the stitches!

I hemmed the sleeves by hand as well.

The fabric was a British made wool and is LUSH! its like the most beautiful fabric in the world and I think I fell in love with it! Surprisingly it pressed really really well! Although I did use a pressing cloth so I wouldn't scorch it. The lining is just a typical lining fabric. The combination of the two makes a lovely snuggly coat!

I finished the hem using the "taped hem" method [At least that's what Jamie from male Devon sewing calls it!] Basically I turned up the hem once and whip stitched it down and them I covered the raw edges and the whip stitching with a strip of ribbon and some very neat stitches!

Then I top stitched around the edge of the whole coat, at this point I'd given up with the instructions and was just going my own way! I also left the buttons off because I just wasn't feeling it!

Okay so here's the deal , whilst I had a blast sewing this up and I love the fabric and I do genuinely think its some of my best sewing....... It is very 80's. I mean very 80's it has shoulder pads for gods sake! Now I know this slouchy style is very on trend however I think this might be a bit too slouchy for me [The lady who gave me this would have looked fab in it, shes very tall and by here own admission has the shoulders to carry it!] I however am quite short and have very little shoulders so It sort of drowns me, which is why..............

I have altered the living shenanigans out of it!!! Haha yep I went on a full hacking spree on this bad boy and now its bad-ass! But you'll have to wait for this until part 2!!!

Much Love 

Frankie

xxx

P.S if you made it to the end I'll be well impressed because this was a well long post! 

  

Simple blue velvet jacket

I was given this jacket pattern a few months ago by my penpal, it was actually in a stack of prima patterns all of which focused on very simple clean designs.

The pattern itself is only three pieces, the front , the sleeve and the back. The instructions say to cut out four front pieces to line your jacket front but the idea of only having the front of the jacket lined felt weird to me so I drafted a collar facing. It's worked pretty well, you can't see a messy inside but you don't have the bulk from two layers of velvet.

And speaking of fabric I used some more of the blue velvet I was given its got a woven underside so it looks okay on the inside of a jacket especially since I used bias binding on all of my seams. I'm not sure if they count as Hong Kong seams becuase I bound both sides together but they look very neat so I'm happy. I made my own binding from a blue and white weird microbe looking cotton I had in my stash. I know il never use it as a dress fabric but I didn't want to throw it away. 

I also made the white binding that runs around the edge of the jacket, I applied this by hand for a nice finish and added beads as i went to make the jacket feel a bit more special.

These photos are awful sorry the spare room is still in pre Christmas chaos and lil knitwit was napping whilst I took these. Bless him he's ended up with another cold and hasn't been his usual self. He went to nursery Monday morning with a sniffle and by afternoon had collected the entire classes germs.

Here's a picture of my seam binding isn't it neat and lovely? I even bound around the pockets so they would look nice too and then I tacked the pocket binding to the front facing binding so they wouldn't flap about. I'm not sure if its the proper way of doing things but its how I did it.

You can wear the collar up or folding down but I think I prefer it up. I think it made the coat look more classy even if I think it could have done with being as bit smaller.

The facing fabric was given to me by a friend , its a great texture but its much too itchy to make a entire garment out of. I think the grey blue and white work nicely together. And I'm quite tempted to make a fully lined version but in a red and black scheme.

Overall im impressed its nice to have another jacket option for going out and I really do think the beads add something even if they did take bleeding ages to apply, luckily I was in a patient mood.

I could have done with taking an inch off the sleeves but it doesn't bother me enough to redo the binding and beading. Although the beading on the cuffs is only on the outside whereas the beading on the main coat is on both sides because the collar flips back.

It all feels very grown up and it basically means that I now have a blue velvet dress suit because of my blue velvet shift dress. The idea of being able to match my dress and jacket makes me feel like the wife of a rich business man in the fifties. You know the kind who doesn't bayt an eyelid when she catches her husband screwing his secretary ( well actually I'd turn fifty shades of crazy but you know what I mean)

A better look at my inside binding and pockets, I used the same material for my pockets as my facing.

And a close up of my labour of love with those pesky beads! Even if it did take less beads bthan I thought it would.

In other news I started another slef drafted project, which is going quite well even if I am having to add nin Godet's becuase I miscalculated my backside measurement.

And I've started the run up to Christmas we went out yesterday and picked up some alcohol and some nuts aswell as a nutcracker, neither of us eat nuts so no think they might end up being more ornamental than anything. But its nice to have them for other people and if all else fails they can go on our bird table.

And I've started to give my wardrobe a proper clear out again. I know I nseem nto do this a lot but making my own stuff means I seem to accumulate a lot of stuff! Itndoesnt help that I'm always happy to take other people's castoffs aswell for refashioning and stuff! This time I didn't get rid of much just a few dresses that after looking at them didn't suit me. Well I nsay get rid of I think I'm going to refashion them into tops which should be cool they have pretty cool prints non and I'm in dire need of some more slouchy tops for the school run.

Much love 

Frankie

Xxx

If it's fabric and it's free , then I'm taking it....

I find it very hard to write blog posts when I have nothing to write about. There's been no huge change in my knitting or my patchwork, and I haven't made any clothes recently because I've been soooooo uninspired by my fabric! 

I have however been keeping up with my me made may challenge, although I do keep forgetting to take photographs so you'll have to take my word for it! 

And I got gifted some fabric yesterday so hopefully my sewing blues will go away! 

Well I say fabric, It's actually a brand new bottom sheet and quilt cover and a lovely purple silky fabric! And it's a double!!!! 

Now I just need to decide what to actually make? 

A silky jumpsuit? 

But I do love a good cardigan? 

A vintage style blouse? I don't have many tops? 

Or shall I just go the whole hog and make a maxi lilou? 

So far I'm undecided! 

I have decided what to do with our old curtains though! 

Pile of curtains ready for the wash, the backs are going onto little knitwits curtains, so hopefully the sun will stop waking him up at stupid o'clock. but thelovely  linen/wool/? Fabric side is hopefully going to be turned into some sort of linen and lace jacket? 

Although maybe with a collar? 

I saw one in a shop recently that was a mixture of lace and linen and leather and it looked amazing! Hopefully mine will look good too! 

Other than that I don't have much to report! 

Much love

Frankie

Xxx

The £4 suit, because I'm super classy and stuff!

Okay so I'll start by saying that I found this wool for £4 in a charity shop! There was roughly two metres so I immediately snapped it up. And yes it's proper wool, I did a burn test when I got home and stunk the kitchen out! 

(Please excuse, the terrible posing, bad lighting, grumpy face and crazy hair day I'm having! 

The pattern for the suit jacket came from simplicity k1699 , or at least I think it did? I'm pretty certain? And the skirt pattern came from the second great British sewing bee book, but I added the waistband from my clemence skirt from love at first stitch. 

Okay so let's start with the jacket, the back centre seam has a slight curve for fit (that or I cut it super wonky) and the sleeve has a cute tuck/pleat detail that I couldn't get my head around so I made it up! But it still works so bonus! 

The style is a meet in the middle type jacket? But I always tend to think of them as Chanel jackets! 

I didn't line the jacket (from what I can remember the instructions don't call for it) but I did draft my own facing for the front neck/front/collar area (yeah, drafted my own, LIKE.A.BOSS) and I top stitched my seams down to stop them fraying. I'm not sure if this is an actual method of finishing your seams or a made up Frankie method, but it works so I like it! 

I love the jacket the only change I'd make in the future is to narrow the shoulders , I've been told before that I have no shoulders (yeah I was surprised too, I mean I'm sure my arms hang from something) but I think making the shoulders more narrow should help. 

Next the skirt, as I've already said its a gbsb pencil skirt and I'm gonna say it! Hands down the BEST fitting item I have ever made! EVER! To the point where I wish the zip had an extra inch because the noises I make when I shimmy into this bad boy are not attractive at all! (Note to self: reusing zips, not always the best option) 

Please excuse the crease, I'm taking a break from ironing this week/month/year/life. I also top stitched these seams and lined the waistband with a pretty floral cotton, I skipped the interfacing because the wool was pretty bulky as is. 

It's also a wee bit shorter than other skirts I've made due to lack of fabric, that also explains my complete disregard for pattern matching and I skipped the back vent because I still can get my head around it and life's too short! 

So do I love it? 

YES! I made a £4 suit! I mean seriously! The jackets great , I made a wearable jacket! A jacket I can wear outside! And the skirt is just amazing fit wise! (Strange noises aside) I love the entire look together and as separates! But as a suit it definitely makes me feel like one of those saucy secretary's from the 1950s! I feel like i should have a martini and seduce the boss! 

"Any paper work need doing today?"

Much love

Frankie

Xxx

I'm a beautiful butterfly!

An old lady died in my mums home town, we didn't know her, but we do know.

I shall explain, whilst having a meander in her town we strolled past a charity shop, and outside of this charity shop there was a table filled with fabric and embroidery thread, and embroidery transfers and just loads of craft stuff! Well I had a small (slightly maniacal) dig through the box of fabrics and happened to find a black knit fabric, roughly two metres. Anyway after deciding to purchase (what? It's not new fabric if you know exactly what to make from it!) we wandered inside where we found about. 30 craft books and asked the assistant what had happened, turns out a lady had died and her husband had donated all of her craft stuff because he couldn't bear to look at it. Which makes me kind of sad, but at the same time im sure that a lot of people are going to get pleasure from his kindness and generosity and her good taste! 

Now my intention for the fabric was to make the three hour cardigan from the great british sewing bee book, but there wasn't quite enough! So I followed this tutorial for a cocoon cardigan! http://truebias.com/2014/03/diy-cocoon-cardigan.html

You basically follow the instructions and mark directly into the fabric.

Excuse the mess, we've fitted a new sound system in the game room and are storing all if our Easter eggs! 

Right so it's comfy, and the construction was super easy, I did French seams for a nice finish and use a zig zag stitch and a ball point needle. This was my first experience sewing with a knit so I was pretty nervous! 

The arm seam kinda points at the nipple region, (can I say nipple?) which I'm not crazy about, but I think it's hidden by the drape of the fabric. By the way I have no idea what kind of knit it is, it's fairly stable with a very small amount if one way stretch, it's not thin like a tshirt, but the backs not fuzzy like sweatshirt. 

I'm not crazy about the gather detail at the back, I'll see how it washes but it might be ripped out. 

It feels very snuggly.

Here's me trying to do a casual pose, so you can see it hasn't worked! 

All In all I kind of like it, I don't like it as much as my kimono jacket, but it's warmer and I was DESPERATELY in need of a black cardigan I can just throw on over things. Yes i know springs meant to be here but have you seem it yet!? No didn't think so! 

Much love

Frankie

 Xx