1950's style Cotton and Chalk Denim Trousers/Dungaree Mashup

That's quite the beast of a title isn't it? But it does exactly what it says on the tin! 

So in a nutshell! [a rather large nutshell] This is my interpretation of the Sunday set dungaree trousers, by cotton and chalk. Now I've already made the dress from this [you can see it here] But after I really wanted to give the trouser option ago! 

So the pattern, I did make a few changes, for starters the pattern calls for gathers at the front and back but I just couldn't get on board with that because they might make my hips look poofy. And I am not about poofy hips. So I changed the gathers to a simple pleat on either side which I think is a lot more flattering and less bulky. 

Secondly the pattern calls for a centre back zip and whilst I'm not opposed to a centre back zip in trousers It felt kind of wrong to do it in a pair of denim dungarees so I did a complete hack! Basically I decided instead of trying to do a fly front because OMG I am not ready for that level of stress again.[And would it look weird with the bib?]  I went for two side tab closures, with buttons and button holes I thought they might give a nice vintage sort of feel which is what I was going for.

anyway here's a brief [and pretty terrible description of how I calculated the front and back waistband. 

- Measure Waist

-Mine was 28inches, so divide that by 2

28 ÷ 2 =14

- add seam allowance and ease [roughly 1.5inch]

 14+1.5=15.5 

-15.5 inches = front waistband

-back waistband 

-half of waist measurement [14] + seam allowance and ease [1.5] + 4inch for overlap

14+1.5+4=19.5inches=back waistband

I also added a small zip [recycled from 2x old pairs of jeans into the side seams of the trousers, this has two uses, 1. it looks bad-ass and 2. it means you can get in and out of them with having a split in the side seam and potentially showing your pants! Or some squishy fleshy bits. 

And as you may have gathered from the picture above I made another pretty big change! I made the bib detachable again. Just because it gives the item a lot more styling freedom! I did it the same way as I did my delphine mashup.  

All the buttons are from my stash but the ones on the side tabs and the ones on the bib don't match. I don't think its a huge issue though?

I also did all my top stitching in a golden coloured thread which means they look a bit like ready to wear! I was going to do flat felled seams down the sides but I couldn't work out how to do them and incorporate the zips so I just top stitched up the edge of each seam. 

I love the mock jeans feel that these have and the slightly 50's vibe, definitely feel like I should be digging for victory and stuff! I even like the turn ups at the bottom! Wanna know a secret these are not even hemmed, not even stitched I literally just folded them over! How lazy am I! [giggles]

Here's what they look like without the bib, Its a shame you can;t see more of the detail but this denim was such a monkey to photograph! 

The fabric incidentally was a wedding gift from my mum and dad! And I have a sneaking suspicion it came from abakhans! 

This is me doing my best Rosie the riveter impression....... Anyway I adore this make, I don't think I'd make it again but if I did I think I would make a few more improvements:

1. place button holes further on the ends of tabs [they flap around a bit, I'm wondering if a press stud at the end may help?]

2. Use thicker interfacing!

3. I really wanted the add side seam pockets and I miss that they are not their, but I just don't think I could work it out! That said I think some bum pockets would work really nicely!

But even in spite of it flaws I still love it! And its quite might to have a pair of denim trousers with a slightly different shape!

Much Love

Frankie!

xxx

Cotton and Chalk, Sunday set In Liberty Cord

I've spoken before about how I'm not much of a Liberty fangirl, Its not that I hate there fabrics Its just that I can't really justify the price.

So when Abakhans Fabrics got in touch and asked me if I'd like some of their Liberty cotton cord I was like "oh, okay then" And picked one off the website.

AND THEN IT ARRIVED!

and the colours! and the softness! OMG! Seriously you know when a pony takes an apple out of your hand and you feel the really velvety nose part? That's what this cotton cord feels like!

Seriously I was sold and It was pre-washed almost immediately!

And then suddenly it happened, I fell a little bit in love with liberty and all it has to offer! And I found that OMG I actually could afford it if I brought it from Abakhans! And then I started my wishlist! if your interest this cotton, this lawn, and this lawn!

Anyway I chose the Stockton in Burgundy which I can't find on the website anymore sobs.....

And chose to make the Cotton and Chalk Sunday set dungaree dress from a recent issue of simply sewing.

And I think It turned out pretty Cute!!!! I didn't have any trouble with the construction of the dress as the cord knows how to behave its little fabric self!

The only trouble I had was with my own stupidity! I mean seriously when will I remember to keep trying stuff on! I had to unpick one strap because it was the wrong way round, shorten the actual straps and ended up just stitching them down because they were too long and I had to rip up the back seam to remove four inches of fabric because either this pattern has too much ease built in or I'm a moron.

The full circle skirt is really pretty and I especially love the fact that it has pockets. I always get so excited for pockets! Its cut on the cross grain but that wasn't an issue for me because this liberty cord isn't a direction print. Although can you imagine getting some chevron action up the sides... Extreme pattern matching! LUSH!

There's me demonstrating the pockets!  The only sad thing about this dress is you can't see the beasty topstitching I did unless your about a foot away from me. But I assure you its there and Its pretty spot on!

Because I had to remove fabric from the back of the dress my zip is central, but my button isn't. There was literally nothing I could do about it other than unpick the entire thing and start again [FYI I have altered my pattern pieces to reflect a smaller size!]

I promise the straps aren't actually twisted like they are in the photo above, it just turns out I can't dress myself! 

Here's a close up of the front of the dress, hopefully you can see the awesome pocket! Which is just big enough for me to keep the car key in when I go to tescos. But I think anything else would drag it out of shape and give gapey boob.

You can also see the buttons I used which came from one of little mans old cardigans. They weren't the ones I originally intended to use in fact I had a few options lined up and asked for help on a sewing community Facebook page. One was a clear favourite but a few people suggested I keep looking and I think it was a good call.

All in all I think its a grand success. To be honest at first I was like "Yay I've made a dress for an over grown child." but I wore it to a birthday party on Saturday and got some lovely comments from the other mums. [By the way how fricking awkward are kids parties? Like "oh hey, we vaguely know each other from school pick up time, Thank you for inviting my child, I'm going to sit in the corner because I don't know you from Adam and I don't trust you enough to leave my child alone with you. Kay?" ]

The only thing I wish is that you could see some of the awesome details better, like the pockets and top stitching.

But I'm determined to make another one in a denim of some form, maybe in something like this! 

Much Love

Frankie 

xxx

P.S. Whilst the fabric for this project was sent to me free of charge all views are my own as is all the love! xxx